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TIME: Almanac 1993
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TIME Almanac 1993.iso
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041089
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04108900.029
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1992-09-23
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FASHION, Page 128COUTURE FOR THE COMRADES
Though no competition for Armani or Miyake, two young designers
hope to banish the drab from Soviet closets
Katya Mikhulskaya giggles as she shows off her outfit -- a
red-and-gold-braided army jacket paired with a frilly white
lace skirt -- then coquettishly pulls up her hem to reveal
black knee-high jackboots. Mikhulskaya, 23, developed her theory
of fashion from years of riding the Moscow metro, where she saw
women wearing a tasteless hodgepodge because the
state-controlled fashion industry had made it impossible for
them to put together well-coordinated wardrobes. "When it comes
to fashion in Moscow," she says, "a sense of humor is especially
important." Her fellow designer, Katya Fillipova, 29, pokes fun
at Soviet icons; her creations include a portrait of Lenin
fastened to a rhinestone cross and sewn onto the jacket of a
border guard.
Mikhulskaya and Fillipova are emerging leaders in the
avant-garde underworld of Soviet fashion design. They labor
over sewing machines in cramped apartments shared by husbands
and children; every drawer is crammed with fabric, zippers and
buttons scrounged up in state stores and weekend flea markets.
Thanks to their sardonic use of hallowed Soviet symbols, the two
women cannot be members of the Society of Soviet Designers, and
their styles are not bought by Dom Modeli, the state fashion
center.
Nonetheless, Filli pova and Mikhulskaya sell their designs
(from 100 rubles for a simple jacket to 1,000 rubles for a full
suit) to a small group of relatively prosperous rock musicians,
artists and filmmakers. With the aid of newly relaxed travel
restrictions, the two are hoping to take their creations to New
York City this fall. Who knows? If the hammer-and-sickle
designs become popular enough in the West, they may wind up as
eagerly sought after items in a place that already covets such
Western garb as T-shirts and dungarees: the Soviet Union.